Harriet De Roeper
This collection hands down was my favourite from the whole of Graduate Fashion Week. Harriet De Roeper's collection was so powerful it left me wondering why on earth I hadn't attempted to do a print of some kind for my own graduate collection, and the way she had executed it was very balanced, sophisticated and still packed a punch. The fly print was unlike anything I had seen before, and the textures shone through the black and white. You know as well I have been raving on my blog about these velvet doc martens! A perfect match for these beautiful clothes.
Rietti’s collection was inspired by the Francesco Mastalias book on dreadlocks. Quite an original concept I think! The shearling wool particularly caught my attention, in the form of this beautiful dark brown jacket that was ready to wear. The first outfit reminded me of a swim suit collection Louise Goldin did during her MA, in which she tied wool together to create these amazing shapes. Rietti has created these beautiful ethereal pieces that sit and flow down the body, this contrasts beautifully with the soft fur and wool she has used throughout.
The grey jacket was my favourite piece in this collection hands down. So beautiful, like a cross between Jil Sander and Celine. A very sleek tailored grown up collection from Penfold. I couldn’t believe the shoes in this collection also, FINSK! Amazing.
Qin presented a very elegant menswear collection at the Kinston show, the hats immediately caught my attention and the beautiful natural tones paired with strong shoulders and leather suspenders were a match made in heaven.
I absolutely adored the low hung trousers, held up with the leather suspender belts, I could truly see men wearing this, don’t you think?
Probert’s use of fur was unmatched through GFW. Inspired by the idea of ‘being watched’ and under constant surveillance, figures were eerily shaved into the shaggy wool coats and the darker outfits emphasised the feeling of unease. Probert also wanted to show that you can still create amazing looking garments with sheep by-products.
“Concentrating on the bathroom as a space with which we hold many relationships. As well as a place of cleanliness, it offers us privacy. It is a space in which we wander in and out throughout the day, in various states of undress.
Whilst sexuality remains integral, gender becomes irrelevant. The prevailing mood is accidental and garments become asexual.”
A stunning paragraph about the inspiration behind this collection I found out through Anna’s website (A stunning website too I might add). I would never have imagined this collection to be inspired by the bathroom although I see it now. My favourite piece is obviously that bone leather harness, perfect in every way, the cut out shoulder top is another favourite of mine. The materials have been chosen meticulously and the shapes that accompany them are equally as sharp, the androgynous silhouettes and subtle colour palette of Singleton’s collection made it stand out from her peers.
Strong vibrant knitwear from Lucy Hammond that brings to mind Sonia Rykiel at first glance. The slogan “I love knitting I’m not shitting” was emblazoned across the front of a long red and black striped dress that I recognised from the GFW campaign shot by Rankin. The bold stripes and zig-zags in fiery red, yellow and orange accompanied sophisticated below the knee dresses.
Unusual pastel colour pairings led me to fall in love with Kit-Na Kwok’s collection. Being able to see the collection up close from the front row led me to realise the unusual fabrics she had chosen, spongy yellow and pink printed shorts accompanied stiff oversized hot pink jacket and the neoprene yellow half jacket, half dress was truly unusual.
The most elegant collection of all, Wong’s use of subtle natural tones, with sophisticated modern tailoring and luxurious fabrics made her a sure favourite in my eyes. I completely adored the way the outfits were paired together, my favourites being look 1, 4 and 6 of the line up; the brown cut out jacket (1st left) paired with the long black dress, the incredible half brown button dress of look 4, and the sleek jacket and trouser combo of look 6 reminded my of the late Pheobe Philo Chloe era but with the tailoring of Yamamoto.
(All outfits I might add I would buy straight away if given half the chance!)
I will start by saying I adored the picture of Stoneman with his late Gran in the Kingston press pack. I adore Grannies full stop and this was just too sweet! The picture you can see for yourself knitted into the first jumper. David’s inspiration from this collection came from looking at dementia, mixing together day and night wear. The patterns were inspired by pixellated wallpapers and furnishings.
I really enjoyed this snug looking collection, models strutted down the catwalk in heavy oversized jumpers and knitted long johns with long hats and scarfs.
Marshall’s inspiration came from a post-apocalyptic world, evolution and discovery.
“My inspiration comes from the process of making clothes,” Zac explained. “I imagined a situation where a new race evolves and tries to re-create clothing using old photos and remnants from the past. But in my head, these child-like creatures have no idea how to make garments, so often get things wrong.”
Marshall’s colour palette of greys and blues with a hint or orange leather was refreshing and modern, whilst the silhouette stayed true to the traditional menswear shape, apart from the odd elongated arm and twisted panel.
It’s so interesting to see somebody with the same basic inspiration as I had, but came at it a completely different way.
A truly remarkable collection to finish.