Monthly Archives: June 2010

TOPSHOP A/W 2010

Seriously going crazy over Topshop’s new A/W lookbook, I can’t wait to get some of my hands on these pieces! The shearling coats and sheer skirts are a must.
The shoes have taken on a much more ACNE vibe too (rub hands together with glee!) Although i’ll have to think fast as they never ever seem to half my elephant foot size 8′s in stock.
The A/W 2010 has three separate running themes with ‘The outsiders’, ‘Art nouveau’ and ‘Out of the wild’.

OUT OF THE WILD

The ‘Out of the Wild’ warrior girl invites you to take a trip into a post-apocalyptic world, where fashion survivors battle the elements in fur, bondage-style strapping, disheveled fabrics and patchwork. Ragged chamois-style leathers have unfinished hems, crochet pieces are tattered and cobwebby, and fake furs appear pelted and pulled apart. Textured knitwear and mixed MATERIALS are central to this trend, with pieces that appear knotted, laddered, or adorned with feathers and fur.

Not only was my platforming on trend but it appears fashion is now getting the apocalyptic vibe too!

DARK NOUVEAU
Topshop invites you to return to the dark ages, mixing inspiration from the sinister fairytales of the Art Nouveau movement with Beardsley’s illustrations for Oscar Wilde and the Banshees created by Neville Page for Avatar. There is a tough medieval feel through-out, appearing in fierce studded corsets and cage-like skirts with harness detailing. Leather is a key fabric, and is often decorated with hand-crafted, heavily-encrusted studwork. Footwear has strapping and harnessing touches.

Sounds AWESOME.

Accessorize

Woahhh styling!
The nude kills me it’s so beautiful, the bone necklace, the three dimensional edge to the shoes – spectacular, but that clown shirt it SCARY!
The helmets are pretty cool too, although I can’t see anyone wearing it on Jak&Jil, can you?

Forget Milan, You saw it in Bristol first

Prada

Charlie May
Platform trend: just remember, you saw it in Bristol first.

GARETH PUGH NAILS

The must have accessory for 2011.

Winter Dreaming

AnOther Magazine
Autumn/Winter 2008
Photographer: Willy Vanderperre
Model: Natasha Poly

I’m such a fan of summer weather, but looking at this editorial, I want the winter back! Dressing up in every item of clothing you own and going for a brisk cold walk along a hillside, looking down at the sea below, wind billowing through your hair.

KINGSTON

Harriet De Roeper
This collection hands down was my favourite from the whole of Graduate Fashion Week. Harriet De Roeper's collection was so powerful it left me wondering why on earth I hadn't attempted to do a print of some kind for my own graduate collection, and the way she had executed it was very balanced, sophisticated and still packed a punch. The fly print was unlike anything I had seen before, and the textures shone through the black and white. You know as well I have been raving on my blog about these velvet doc martens! A perfect match for these beautiful clothes.

Naama Rietti
Rietti’s collection was inspired by the Francesco Mastalias book on dreadlocks. Quite an original concept I think! The shearling wool particularly caught my attention, in the form of this beautiful dark brown jacket that was ready to wear. The first outfit reminded me of a swim suit collection Louise Goldin did during her MA, in which she tied wool together to create these amazing shapes. Rietti has created these beautiful ethereal pieces that sit and flow down the body, this contrasts beautifully with the soft fur and wool she has used throughout.

Nadja Penfold
The grey jacket was my favourite piece in this collection hands down. So beautiful, like a cross between Jil Sander and Celine. A very sleek tailored grown up collection from Penfold. I couldn’t believe the shoes in this collection also, FINSK! Amazing.

Sharren Qin
Qin presented a very elegant menswear collection at the Kinston show, the hats immediately caught my attention and the beautiful natural tones paired with strong shoulders and leather suspenders were a match made in heaven.
I absolutely adored the low hung trousers, held up with the leather suspender belts, I could truly see men wearing this, don’t you think?

Angharad Probert
Probert’s use of fur was unmatched through GFW. Inspired by the idea of ‘being watched’ and under constant surveillance, figures were eerily shaved into the shaggy wool coats and the darker outfits emphasised the feeling of unease. Probert also wanted to show that you can still create amazing looking garments with sheep by-products.

Anna Singleton
“Concentrating on the bathroom as a space with which we hold many relationships. As well as a place of cleanliness, it offers us privacy. It is a space in which we wander in and out throughout the day, in various states of undress.
Whilst sexuality remains integral, gender becomes irrelevant. The prevailing mood is accidental and garments become asexual.”

A stunning paragraph about the inspiration behind this collection I found out through Anna’s website (A stunning website too I might add). I would never have imagined this collection to be inspired by the bathroom although I see it now. My favourite piece is obviously that bone leather harness, perfect in every way, the cut out shoulder top is another favourite of mine. The materials have been chosen meticulously and the shapes that accompany them are equally as sharp, the androgynous silhouettes and subtle colour palette of Singleton’s collection made it stand out from her peers.

Lucy Hammond
Strong vibrant knitwear from Lucy Hammond that brings to mind Sonia Rykiel at first glance. The slogan “I love knitting I’m not shitting” was emblazoned across the front of a long red and black striped dress that I recognised from the GFW campaign shot by Rankin. The bold stripes and zig-zags in fiery red, yellow and orange accompanied sophisticated below the knee dresses.

Kit-Na Kwok
Unusual pastel colour pairings led me to fall in love with Kit-Na Kwok’s collection. Being able to see the collection up close from the front row led me to realise the unusual fabrics she had chosen, spongy yellow and pink printed shorts accompanied stiff oversized hot pink jacket and the neoprene yellow half jacket, half dress was truly unusual.

Vivian Wong
The most elegant collection of all, Wong’s use of subtle natural tones, with sophisticated modern tailoring and luxurious fabrics made her a sure favourite in my eyes. I completely adored the way the outfits were paired together, my favourites being look 1, 4 and 6 of the line up; the brown cut out jacket (1st left) paired with the long black dress, the incredible half brown button dress of look 4, and the sleek jacket and trouser combo of look 6 reminded my of the late Pheobe Philo Chloe era but with the tailoring of Yamamoto.
(All outfits I might add I would buy straight away if given half the chance!)

David Stoneman-Merret
I will start by saying I adored the picture of Stoneman with his late Gran in the Kingston press pack. I adore Grannies full stop and this was just too sweet! The picture you can see for yourself knitted into the first jumper. David’s inspiration from this collection came from looking at dementia, mixing together day and night wear. The patterns were inspired by pixellated wallpapers and furnishings.
I really enjoyed this snug looking collection, models strutted down the catwalk in heavy oversized jumpers and knitted long johns with long hats and scarfs.

Zheng Zeng
The motivation behind this collection was to give the body a new shape, whilst the colour palette of white, yellow and grey helped add shadow and definition to Zeng’s silhouettes. The collection had a very sportswear feel to it, even with these new bolder shapes that were somewhat reminiscent of old Balenciaga.

Zac Marshall
Marshall’s inspiration came from a post-apocalyptic world, evolution and discovery.
“My inspiration comes from the process of making clothes,” Zac explained. “I imagined a situation where a new race evolves and tries to re-create clothing using old photos and remnants from the past. But in my head, these child-like creatures have no idea how to make garments, so often get things wrong.”

Marshall’s colour palette of greys and blues with a hint or orange leather was refreshing and modern, whilst the silhouette stayed true to the traditional menswear shape, apart from the odd elongated arm and twisted panel.

It’s so interesting to see somebody with the same basic inspiration as I had, but came at it a completely different way.

A truly remarkable collection to finish.

GFW DAY 2: International show

Dominic Knecht – Institute of Fashion Design Basel
Insane wrapped pieces teemed with oversized flowing trousers and paint splattered tops. A truly interesting collection where I was left wondering how on earth it was achieved. One of the jackets in particular reminded me of a huge ball of yarn, with a model trapped in the middle. The final piece was this huge jacket, made out of padded rainproof material, also tied and twisted within each other.

Floor Kolen – Amsterdam Fashion Institute
The accessories in this collection made it for me. Beautiful creepy bird like masks, teemed with plastic moulded foot shoe coverings. Kolen’s collection truly captured my imagination, the moulded breast top worn with the red polka dot trousers was my absolute favourite. The way the white faded out to transparent, I found myself wondering how I could work that into an every day outfit.

Linda – Lasalle College of the Arts Singapore
Denim as I had never seen it before, sculptural, striking and beautiful. The face covering dress was obviously quite a piece, everyone sat to attention for Linda.

Roya Hesam – Amsterdam Fashion Institute
Hesam’s collection for me was highly refined and delicate. Beautiful soft materials that draped from the models accentuating their beauty, the kind of clothes that you would die to wear, because you know that they too would do this for you. The colour palette reminded me of Haider Achermann’s more sophisticated recent collections, soft greys and browns that are quite unusual.

Anna Sergunova – St Petersburg State University of Technology & Design
I felt this collection was the most powerful at the international show, for obvious reasons. Sculptural wool dresses accompanied harsh metal-like helmets and high platform shoes, showing a much harder edge to fashion. There are many more beautiful pictures of Anna’s collection in detail on her blog here.

GFW DAY 2: Birmingham

Anna Russell
Russells collection was the perfect nude dream. Hard underwear as outerwear teamed with long sheer skirts and laser cut dresses. I think I fell in love with this collection the hardest at Birmingham’s show. I feel that at Graduate Fashion Week everybody is looking out for the bright colours and insane prints, and the beauty of the subtler collections go un-noticed by the masses. Well, Anna, I’m noticing!

Fay Gascoigne
My favourite part about Fay Gascoigne’s collection were her mirrored geometric necklaces, which lit up the whole room like disco balls as the models sauntered down the catwalk. It was quite a spectacle and really caught my attention, followed by her incredible sculptured jackets. Such awesome shapes that really captured my imagination.

Jessica Day
Day’s collection was cute as a button. Great silhouettes, with fur and ears and tutus that I would just die to wear. A big doggy jumper, spiked shoulder pads, doll necklaces and a 3D robot corset that looked to be made out of lego. It was ALL going on!

Joseph Turvey
Masks featured heavily in the Birmingham show, but these one’s caught my eyes the most. Joseph tells me the masks are the face of Margaret Rutherford, the original miss marple. The masks were somewhat reminiscent of Margielas face coverings, the way they tied up at the back. Lovely. If not somewhat creepy.

Thomasin Gautier-Ollerenshaw
I absolutely adore avant-garde, quirky knitwear, like the giant foxes and roosters from last years Hannah Taylor (Ravenbourne). When I first saw this I knew fashion156 would be all over it. Everything about this collection just kicked ass! I can’t wait to see this being styled up among other GFW and designer pieces.

GFW DAY 2: Ravensbourne

Bobby Abley
What first sprang to mind with Bobby Abley’s S&M mickey mice, was Jeremy Scott on even more crack. It certainly was the best opener for the show, making sure we all sat to attention. The speech bubble top was my favourite piece, contrasting pastels with a brightly coloured harness and tie combo. I adored the cut of trousers and that interesting silhouette. Insanely awesome!

Danielle Ingemann
Ingemann’s neon collection really caught my eye. Nice patterned prints contrasted with heavily textured knitwear. The black cardigan with the yellow pattern shining through was my particular favourite.

Jessica Holmes
I didn’t actually see the adorable little animal shoulder pads until the white shrug came out, what a charming and quirky idea, I thought! The little bubble bags won my heart over right away, there were so many insanely killer bags this GFW and these were at the top. I really liked the unusual colour combinations and shapes used within this collection, it was truly unlike anything I had seen before. Teaming animals with bubbles, hot air balloons and clown (?) illustrations really makes me wonder what her inspiration could have been. Very adorable collection!

Amy Addison
I really really fell hard for this collection. Everything screamed for me to wear it, those trousers in particular. Models stomped up the catwalk in their platform fetish boots, wearing matching print boxing gloves to their colourful printed outfits. The mood of this collection was fantastic, I kind of want to watch it all over again!

Sera Ulger
Ulger’s beautiful bright mohair caught my eye, along with life like bird prints strategically placed, in fine silk. I couldn’t tell whether the jacket and dress were separate or not, which intrigued me even more. Very beautiful and sophisticated.

Ida Jonsson

I am crazy for pastels at the moment and Jonsson didn’t disappoint, the colour palette was very sophisticated, with neutrals teemed with orange and green to give it a pop. Revolutionary shapes were produced, giving some of the models the posture of ladybirds or beetles (how I like to think of it anyway). I particularly liked the long armed hunch jacket, pictured above.

Images: Myself and Catwalking

LONDON EAST

First day of Graduate Fashion Week
I was only able to attend the London East show on Sunday because The UWE show was at 7 and believe it or not, we started from 3pm fitting the models and prepping the clothes.

LONDON EAST
Parastoo Dehghanian

Queesra Abbas Dad

Schennel Stephens

Carlos Sousa

Charlotte Macke

Holly Keepfer

Bunmi Olaye
This was possibly my favourite collection of all, so different from anything else I have seen. The music popped as the models strutted down the catwalk, covered in multi coloured pompoms and waving striped feathered spears

Diane Gevorgian

Enuvierhire Sophia Orere

Carly Njini

I got far too snap happy at this sow, due to last minute seating I was sat in the VIP section! Best view in the house for sure. Pictures are easy to take and movement isn’t an issue.
Anyway, to get back to the show London East was a really incredible body of work.
Favourites had to be Bunmi Olaye and Enuvierhire Sophia Orere but I think the accessories just killed me. Styling is always on top form at graduate fashion week.

I will try and be more on the ball for the rest of the week, and a lot more editorial with what I snap.


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